1. Start by cutting the black pens into 1 > 1 1/2" pieces.
1a. Can Also use 1/4" diameter brass tubing. (no need for drilling)
2. The pens are just a hair too small for the caps, so drill out just deep enough for
the cap to sit even with the edge of the pen. About a 1/4" deep should do it. Make sure to
keep the drill very steady and use a vice to hold the pen, but don't squeeze it too tight or
....... CRACK!!
2a. Optional Mini Gator clip:
Before you mount anything to the pen/body, drill a small hole in the body to allow just the end
(the part that the wire would got too) of the mini-gator clip to enter. You may have to squeeze
the metal parts together to fit it in the hole, make the hole as small as possible.
Once the gator clip is inserted, as best you can open the metal parts so it can't slip out of
the hole. (once you see the clip it will become more clear.)
Hot glue or epoxy it in place ONLY AFTER YOU HAVE IT ALL WIRED.
There is VERY little space in there. Best to wire it up then slip the gator clip into the
hole and Hot glue/epoxy everything at once. Be careful not to severe the wire when you insert
the clip.
If using the brass tubing, the mini gator clip can be soldered to it.
2b. Optional Velcro Strip:
An easy way to mount the mics is to use a small piece of self adhesive velcro.
Stick it to the mic body and the other half to wherever you plan on mounting the mics;
Hat, Collar etc... You may want to use a dab of glue or epoxy to have the velcro stick better.
3. Run the wires through the bottom (back) of the pen and solder the wires to the cap.
The caps already have solder pads on them, so just *tin* (put solder on the tips of the wires
and touch em to the solder padson the caps. The pad with the trace going to and touching the
edge is the *-* negative pad. Strip the wires very short so they will not touch each other.
It's very tight. DO NOT LET THE SOLDER IRON HEAT UP THE CAP TOO MUCH!!! 2>5 secs should
be the max it should take to solder em. depending on the power of your iron.
4. Use either hot glue or epoxy and put some into the pen before mounting the cap.
Make sure the g/e will adhere to the wires and the cap, so don't put it too deep into the pen.
Then drop your cap into place, hold for a good 30 secs (tug lightly on the wire on the other
end to pull the cap into place.)
You may want to practice with the g/e on scrap pieces before the real thing. It's tricky and hard
not to make a mess. If you use epoxy, sand down the excess, tape off the face of the cap and
paint em black. If you use hot glue, use a razor blade to trim away the excess.
If your careful you wont need to paint.
5a. Use the heat shrink tubing to further secure the wire coming out the bottom of the pen.
A 2 inch piece will do. This will stiffen up where the wire exits the pen (it's weakest point)
and help to stop any possible damage to the wire and will help to clean-up (hide) any excess
glue or epoxy that got on the wires.
5. Once the cap is in place and dry, Squirt some g/e in the other end of the pen to
secure the wires and Gator clip if used. Try to get the g/e as deep as possible
(it's tricky, again practice) if you are using hot glue make sure it is a hot as possible,
that way it will be more of a liquid and flow easier. The deeper it goes the more contact it makes.
6. You can use a short wire with a connector coming out of the pen and make a extension
wire with the female mating connector or a long (full length) wire going straight to the battbox.
Also, a recycled set of headphones will do the trick. Try to get a set with a right angle 1/8" plug.
7. Solder all wires to the connectors (1/8", Mini XLR, whatever) making sure that all
are done exactly the same. The * - * negative wire from the cap should go to the shield of
the connector (the outside) and the * + * positive
from the cap to the pin. (middle).
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE POLARITY BE THE SAME ON ALL THE CONNECTORS.
10. Your done!